South Pacific Cruise, April 2025 – Part 1

South Pacific cruise; pre-cruise plans: Palisade Hotel history, drinking, eating and sleeping; sailing away from Sydney; fabulous freebies onboard; storage ratios; lack of serious application on the drinking front; keeping it clean; onward to New Caledonia!

South Pacific Cruise – Part 1, Sydney and Sail-away

South Pacific cruise, HAL Westerdam in Sydney Harbout

With our 29-day South Pacific cruise to Northern America on the HAL Westerdam departing from Sydney Harbour, it was a good idea to fly across from Perth the day before and overnight at the heritage-listed Palisade Hotel in Miller’s Point in the Rocks area. From there, it’s just a five-minute walk down to Circular Quay and the Overseas Passenger Terminal.

Circular Quay, Sydney Harbour

__________________________________________

Hotel Palisade, Sydney

Overall, it’s a lovely little hotel. I like the way you come through the main bar on the ground floor, and they hand you your key without ceremony. (And with minimal service, to be honest.) We also loved the atmospheric Henry Deane Bar that wraps picturesquely around the fourth and fifth floors and has sweeping harbour views.

Designed by Irish architect Henry Deane

History

Rebuilt by the NSW government in 1915-16 after the bubonic plague outbreak of the early 1900s, it replaced an 1880-built hotel of the same name with a pub that was popular with wharf workers. Its architecture is described as Federation Free Style. After serving various social and community functions for nearly a century, including as a port of call for Anzac soldiers bound for Gallipoli, and a brothel (possibly not simultaneously), it was closed in 2008 for renovations and reopened in its current form in 2015.

Cheers to our travels! – from the Henry Deane Bar, Palisade Hotel.

View down the stairs from the 5th to the 4th floor of the Henry Deane Bar, Palisade Hotel, Sydney

Accommodation

Roy had booked the Noel Banfield suite on the third floor, with a fabulous view of the bridge. I appreciated the quirky décor, but agreed with my semi-disgruntled husband that they could and should have done a lot better for A$365 a night. (Eclectic is as eclectic does.)

Should try harder

How about a corner wardrobe to conceal the crass hanging frame and ironing board? How about cleaning the sofa upholstery, or replacing the ugly dining furniture with something more appropriate and less bulky? And updating the awkward free-standing air-conditioning unit cluttering up the rest of the dining/kitchenette area? It wouldn’t be difficult.

_______________________________________________

Dinner at Jounieh

Dinner was at Jounieh, a nice Lebanese joint on the Rocks waterfront: several dips with pita, followed by delicious, slow-roasted lamb shoulder. Interestingly, Sydney prices for food and drink seem, if anything, a bit lower than those in Perth WA.

Dinner at Jounieh, the Rocks, Sydney

___________________________________

Day 1 – Sail-away from Sydney Harbour

We’ve sailed out of Sydney Harbour before, but it’s still an exciting experience. Gloomily expecting to be laid low by the heavy seas lurking just beyond the safety of the harbour – I’m a terrible sailor, generally – I put my faith in the Travacalm ginger I’d stocked up on at Rocks Pharmacy the day before. Somehow, it worked! And no drugs involved.

South Pacific cruise
Sydney Opera House from the HAL Westerdam

___________________________________________________________

Days 2 & 3 – At Sea

By Day 2, the heaving seas were starting to ease off, but I kept up the ginger habit. So far, so good!

Storage ratios

Now to settle down into our comfortable stateroom and strategically divide the various shelves, drawers and other storage hidey-holes between us. The ratio here is roughly 2:1, Verne:Roy. Suitcases go under the bed, with room to spare.

Fabulous freebies

Roy had booked this Holland American Line Westerdam cruise a good two years previously. At that time, the promotional rate included one of the nicest staterooms at this level – located on Deck 7 aft with an unobstructed view of the wake from its bigger-than-average balcony. In addition, we have free wi-fi for the duration of the voyage.

Also included in the promotional rate was the Elite beverage package* that includes barista coffees, bottled Pellegrino, all soft drinks, cocktails, wine, beer, spirits etc. That allowed us 15 beverage items each per day, which we never came anywhere near exhausting.

(*Had we paid, it would have cost us over A100 each, per day!)

Must try harder

Clearly we don’t try hard enough. Pre-dinner cocktails at the Pinnacle Bar (see above pics) are our first alcoholic beverages of the day. (No, Roy wasn’t in dinner dress every night: he got tired of T-shirted fellow-passengers trying to order cocktails from him.)

Other passengers were, generally, considerably more conscientious, downing bloody Marys at breakfast to line their stomachs before laying down the lunchtime lagers. Over an afternoon game of Scrabble, cards or cribbage came the chilled Sauvignon, daiquiris and margaritas… especially for the small but dedicated band of smokers, huddled together under a blanket of haze at their Ocean View Bar hangout on the aft deck.

Keeping it clean

Laundry was not included in the fare, so we paid the extra US$305 for unlimited daily laundry and pressing. The alternative would be to pay a set rate for laundry by the bag; HAL ships don’t have laundry facilities, like the ones I had to use on the otherwise-splendid Viking Sun.  (Yay. I hate those claustrophobic little rooms crammed with elderly ladies anxiously guarding their lingerie from theft on the high seas.)

Now, with clean clothes every day and relatively clear heads each morning, on to New Caledonia. See you there!

 

 

 

 

 

A Taste of Bawah Reserve, 29-31 January 2024


Bawah Reserve, dream private island destination; friends for life, and choosing them wisely; travel agents who slack on the job; the uneventful flight of the Panamanian refugees; gorgeous Tented Beach Suite; beach babe Roy; spa bliss and sunset cruising; table-dancing at Elang Private Residence; beef rendang, popcorn prawns and so much more; homeward bound via Singapore

If you like to travel in style to exotic locations, I seriously recommend you choose your friends wisely.

One of the huge advantages of living in Singapore from 2000 to 2016, when Roy retired from a lifetime in the shipping industry to become my full-time travel agent*, was the opportunity to meet an eclectic bunch of people from all over the world. One of these is Paul Robinson. Party animal and self-proclaimed friend for life, this is a man who takes friendship so seriously that he’s virtually turned it into an art form.


Friends for Life

We’ve known Paul for over 20 years, since those early days in Singapore. Formerly with Elite Havens, where he spent most of his time visiting and rating/reviewing upmarket accommodation in exotic locations (how does one get a job like that?), he’s currently COO of gorgeous Bawah Reserve. (Click here for its outstanding website.)

Florie and Paul Robinson, murdering a couple of after-lunch cocktails last year at Chijmes, Singapore

French Triangle Part 2: Beautiful Burgundy – Esbarres, Dole and Dijon

Before reading about beautiful Burgundy, please check out French Triangle Part One, where we said goodbye to our boat, Karanja; gorgeous gîte in Esbarres, near St Jean-de-Losne; homage to crossing the Channel on Karanja with David; flashback to cassoulet in Carcassonne; lamb shank and lavish scenery in Dole; by train to Dijon for lunch at Le Gourmand; onward to the Dordogne!

So, when we weren’t busy tearfully clearing our personal possessions off Karanja, prior to handing her over to her new owners at the St Jean-de-Losne Salon Fluviale, what were we doing? Exploring beautiful Burgundy while drowning our sorrows in duck-fat and Chablis, it would seem.

Framed! Verne in Dijon

French Triangle Part 1: Farewell to Karanja, 20-30 April

Goodbye to boating in France; dirty minds and a pretty map; shamelessly nostalgic Karanja flashback; 18 Pipers piping; celebratory sake with Masako and Yoshi; apéro, gorgeously Gorgonzola-ey pizzas and Toshi’s sushi; sterling beef tartare, and whitebait with too many eyes

For any dirty minds out there, no – this French triangle of which I speak is nothing nearly as exciting as a ménage á trois in a French farce. In fact, it’s mostly about the breaking up of the triangle that was Roy, me and our Dutch barge Karanja.

St Jean-de-Losne, Piper barge, travels with Verne and Roy
The last photo taken of us on Karanja, May 2023

In addition, it roughly describes the route from St Jean-de-Losne in Bourgogne, where we said goodbye to Karanja; southwest to the Dordogne to visit Roy’s sister Lyndsay and brother-in-law John; down to daughter Wendy in Provence; and back to Bourgogne.

QLD Odyssey – Part Six: The Whitsundays, 17-19 June

Bundaberg – arguably missable; rum from a dark Satanic mill; cane for the pain: spook and diesel; 1770 and Agnes Waters; 8 hours to Airlie Beach; Flaggy Rock – best pies on the planet; Tracy saves the day; ZigZag Whitsundays Day Tour – best beach in the world; Sorrento sundowners and dinner at The Rocks

The main reason to stay at Seventeen Seventy / 1770 or its immediate neighbour Agnes Waters – another memorable name, if not place – is that it’s a three-hour drive from Hervey Bay when heading north to Cairns. And a three-hour stint is, in my opinion, the perfect amount of driving time; four hours is OK, too. Anything longer becomes tiresome.

Goodbye to the Whitsundays – one to tick off the bucket list

Visa Run to Blighty – Part 2: Henley-on-Thames, 22-25 September

Mr Piper picks a peck of pretty Pipers; living it up at the Leander; beer with buddies at the Boater’s Bar

It just so happened that Roy and I found ourselves in the south of England on the weekend of the annual Piper Boats get-together at Henley-on-Thames.

Andrea Piper, Simon Piper and Roy

Castelnaudary Part Three: All about Gretige Henriette

Living the dream – Bill and Winnie Post talk to me about their gorgeous old tjalk, Gretige Henriette

I first saw Gretige Henriette and met her owners Bill and Winnie Post two years ago, when Roy and I arrived in the port of Moissac after our three-month-long journey on Karanja from England.

Originally hailing from New York, they have been living in California for many years. Now, though, they spend four to five months each year in France aboard their unique vessel.

Winnie and Bill Post, with Gretige Henriette in the port of Castelnaudary

Castelnaudary Part Two: Port Stories, 3-7 July

Pizza, fisticuffs and the drunken sailor; Bill, Winnie and Gretige Henriette; antiques and anchovies; back to Chez David

 Castelnaudary – or simply “Castel” to locals or wannabe-locals – is one of the Canal du Midi’s prettiest ports.  We had a great first visit in 2017; click here to read all about that.

Castelnaudary Part One – Getting there from Toulouse, 30 June to 3 July

Port Saint-Sauveur vanishing bike act; champagne at Castanet; Bo Peep and her boathook; my many and multifarious roles; lunch hour rules; important-little-towel philosophy; sympathetic éclusier at Sanglier; Le Diné at Port-Lauragais; the insightful M. Riches from La Rochelle

In the wee hours of our last day in Port Saint-Sauveur, Toulouse, neighbour Hans (Comtesse) had a bike nicked from our shared pontoon. In full view of the surveillance camera, someone had come through the gate – must have had a key – and carried the thing away, lock and all.

Everything Toulouse! – 24-29 June

Welcome to the Canal du Midi; high drama in Bayage lock; Victor Hugo market; Toulouse dry docks; IKEA is cool; double martyrdom at Saint-Sernin; cultural cuisine at L’Ouverture

Having waved off daughter Wendy, who was returning to her job in Marseilles, we set off from Grisolles. Lock Emballens was followed by Castelnau, l’Hers – and it was at L’Hers that Roy resolved to push on to Toulouse, rather than moor somewhere overnight. (L’His decision, not L’Hers.)