More South Pacific island destinations on HAL Westerdam; Suva, Fiji, the New York of the South Pacific; quick geography lesson; to buy suva-nirs, or not; dire deviation warning; museum curiosities: curiouser and curiouser; mindless beach day on Fiji’s Dravuni Island; Savusavu Fiji’s land rights and Roy’s pearl of wisdom; quasi-Christian coffee with a side of slavery; hot springs and directional inexactitude; Savusavu scenes; oops, and American Samoa!; octogenerian bladders and missionary zeal on a tedious tour
South Pacific Island Destinations:
Suva City, Viti Levu
Morning view of Suva port from the Westerdam
According to the port talk, Suva is grandiosely known as “the New York of the South Pacific”… and yes, it feels like a capital city, with its broad streets and solid, sometimes fancy colonial-style buildings.
Sugar City Lautoka… again; source of Fiji water; to market, to market; pathetic negotiator hits a luck with the tour touts; to Ba in Ram’s taxi; cultural tidbits; coffee, shopping and curry, in that order
I would like to start by pointing out the huge inconvenience of having two Fijian destinations with such confusingly similar names: starting with Suva, the second-largest city in Fiji; and Savasavu, a pretty harbour town. But that’s only coming up in Part Four. First, we take a look at Lautoka and Ba.
Two Days in Lautoka, Viti Levu Island, Fiji
Lautoka is Fiji’s second-largest city. (Suva is the largest.) It’s nicknamed Sugar City, as it’s in the heart of the sugar growing region. With its sugar mill built in 1903 that’s reminiscent of Durban Sugar Terminal, and its 19th-century history of indentured Indian labour, it reminds me a bit of my hometown.
Sugar cane fields along the road from Lautoka north to Ba
South Pacific island idyll; of cocktails and marbles; Nouméa, New Caledonia; awful offal – a narrow escape at the end of the world; Lifou, Easo Island; tenderly does it; Kanaks and their cocunuts; what happened to Port Vila; the hero of Mystery Island, Vanuatu
Hmm. Somehow, I’ve lost* my notes on New Caledonia – that’s Nouméa and Lifo (Easo Island), and on Vanuatu’s Mystery Island. So now, with just a few days to go before we disembark in Victoria, B.C., I really should crack on with at least a photo-blog of these three destinations.
There’s a chance that I’m in fact losing my marbles, and that I didn’t make the notes I so boldly claim to have made. If that’s the case, I put it down to cocktail befuddlement and freely blame Freddy and Ric for their diabolical skills behind the Pinnacle Bar. Anyway, I blogged quite fully about Nouméa and Lifou before during our 2018South Pacific cruise on HAL’s Noordam. (Find the link here. But come straight back.)
South Pacific cruise; pre-cruise plans: Palisade Hotel history, drinking, eating and sleeping; sailing away from Sydney; fabulous freebies onboard; storage ratios; lack of serious application on the drinking front; keeping it clean; onward to New Caledonia!
South Pacific Cruise – Part 1, Sydney and Sail-away
South Pacific cruise, HAL Westerdam in Sydney Harbout
With our 29-day South Pacific cruise to Northern America on the HAL Westerdam departing from Sydney Harbour, it was a good idea to fly across from Perth the day before and overnight at the heritage-listed PalisadeHotel in Miller’s Point in the Rocks area. From there, it’s just a five-minute walk down to Circular Quay and the Overseas Passenger Terminal.
Circular Quay, Sydney Harbour
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Hotel Palisade, Sydney
Overall, it’s a lovely little hotel. I like the way you come through the main bar on the ground floor, and they hand you your key without ceremony. (And with minimal service, to be honest.) We also loved the atmospheric Henry Deane Bar that wraps picturesquely around the fourth and fifth floors and has sweeping harbour views.
Designed by Irish architect Henry Deane
History
Rebuilt by the NSW government in 1915-16 after the bubonic plague outbreak of the early 1900s, it replaced an 1880-built hotel of the same name with a pub that was popular with wharf workers. Its architecture is described as Federation Free Style. After serving various social and community functions for nearly a century, including as a port of call for Anzac soldiers bound for Gallipoli, and a brothel (possibly not simultaneously), it was closed in 2008 for renovations and reopened in its current form in 2015.
Cheers to our travels! – from the Henry Deane Bar, Palisade Hotel.
View down the stairs from the 5th to the 4th floor of the Henry Deane Bar, Palisade Hotel, Sydney
Accommodation
Roy had booked the Noel Banfield suite on the third floor, with a fabulous view of the bridge. I appreciated the quirky décor, but agreed with my semi-disgruntled husband that they could and should have done a lot better for A$365 a night. (Eclectic is as eclectic does.)
Should try harder
How about a corner wardrobe to conceal the crass hanging frame and ironing board? How about cleaning the sofa upholstery, or replacing the ugly dining furniture with something more appropriate and less bulky? And updating the awkward free-standing air-conditioning unit cluttering up the rest of the dining/kitchenette area? It wouldn’t be difficult.
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Dinner at Jounieh
Dinner was at Jounieh, a nice Lebanese joint on the Rocks waterfront: several dips with pita, followed by delicious, slow-roasted lamb shoulder. Interestingly, Sydney prices for food and drink seem, if anything, a bit lower than those in Perth WA.
Dinner at Jounieh, the Rocks, Sydney
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Day 1 – Sail-away from Sydney Harbour
We’ve sailed out of Sydney Harbour before, but it’s still an exciting experience. Gloomily expecting to be laid low by the heavy seas lurking just beyond the safety of the harbour – I’m a terrible sailor, generally – I put my faith in the Travacalm ginger I’d stocked up on at Rocks Pharmacy the day before. Somehow, it worked! And no drugs involved.
By Day 2, the heaving seas were starting to ease off, but I kept up the ginger habit. So far, so good!
Storage ratios
Now to settle down into our comfortable stateroom and strategically divide the various shelves, drawers and other storage hidey-holes between us. The ratio here is roughly 2:1, Verne:Roy. Suitcases go under the bed, with room to spare.
Fabulous freebies
Roy had booked this Holland American Line Westerdam cruise a good two years previously. At that time, the promotional rate included one of the nicest staterooms at this level – located on Deck 7 aft with an unobstructed view of the wake from its bigger-than-average balcony. In addition, we have free wi-fi for the duration of the voyage.
Also included in the promotional rate was the Elite beverage package* that includes barista coffees, bottled Pellegrino, all soft drinks, cocktails, wine, beer, spirits etc. That allowed us 15 beverage items each per day, which we never came anywhere near exhausting.
(*Had we paid, it would have cost us over A100 each, per day!)
Must try harder
Clearly we don’t try hard enough. Pre-dinner cocktails at the Pinnacle Bar (see above pics) are our first alcoholic beverages of the day. (No, Roy wasn’t in dinner dress every night: he got tired of T-shirted fellow-passengers trying to order cocktails from him.)
Other passengers were, generally, considerably more conscientious, downing bloody Marys at breakfast to line their stomachs before laying down the lunchtime lagers. Over an afternoon game of Scrabble, cards or cribbage came the chilled Sauvignon, daiquiris and margaritas… especially for the small but dedicated band of smokers, huddled together under a blanket of haze at their Ocean View Bar hangout on the aft deck.
Keeping it clean
Laundry was not included in the fare, so we paid the extra US$305 for unlimited daily laundry and pressing. The alternative would be to pay a set rate for laundry by the bag; HAL ships don’t have laundry facilities, like the ones I had to use on the otherwise-splendid Viking Sun. (Yay. I hate those claustrophobic little rooms crammed with elderly ladies anxiously guarding their lingerie from theft on the high seas.)
Now, with clean clothes every day and relatively clear heads each morning, on to New Caledonia. See you there!
Our house, at last completed; You Will Always Find Me in the Kitchen at Parties; Get the Party Started; Our House; Build Me Up, Buttercup; Roy’s baby; Art Deco upstairs; man cave moments; The Lift Girl’s Lament; Bed(s) of Roses; sounding the retreat; more stuff; as the stomach churns
Let me start on a celebratory note with some party pics, including my birthday and our housewarming party on 8 March. Otherwise, we may all glaze over at the seventh picture of tiling/paving, switch off and never get to see Roy and me thoroughly enjoying our long-awaited new home.
You Will Always Find me in the Kitchen at Parties – Jona Lewie (1980)
Christmas Day 2024 at 543 Burns Beach Road, our first tree in 10 years: Roy, Verne, Holly, Carrie, Mia and Carl
Moving In Day was 16 December 2024. By then, the house was completely liveable, even comfortable. There was still plenty to be done: gates, landscaping and the commissioning of the lift, for example. We were able to have family over on Christmas Day, basking in the twinkle of our first Christmas tree since we left Singapore in 2016.
The Grateful Alive; going down south, or even way down south; my semi-apology for gabbiness; Grand Design shed; alien kookaburras… really?; couples of a certain age at Bunbury Farmers Market, Vasse Village; rump cap report-back; friends and neighbours in Marron Rise; Lamont Smith’s Beach for Sunday dinner; lunch at Wise Wine, Eagle Bay; Aravina Wine Estate; curvy Botero with understated genitalia; WA Surf Gallery museum
Talking about gratitude with Roz on Burns Beach last week, she and I agreed that it’s impossible to be grateful and depressed/anxious at the same time. And that we’re very lucky to be living in a wonderful place.
Burns Beach, Iluka – 300m from home
A health podcaster I heard the other day described how she consciously started each day with a gratitude practice, so as to flood her body with the feel-good love hormone, oxytocin. The minute she wakes up, she gives thanks for her pillow, for her comfy mattress, for her Egyptian cotton sheets – and especially for the lusty young man next to her that she brought home from the club last night. (Obviously, I made that last bit up. The rest is a true story.)
Studies also show that our bodies flood with oxytocin when we experience the sensation of awe – as happens when beholding glorious natural scenes like a sunset sky, the sea or a pristine forest. This may be part of why being outdoors is so good for us.
Verne and Roy in the bush at Yallingup, Margaret River
Prince Albert’s marvellous mayor and cultural characters; getting to Prince Albert; staying with Linda and André; the Swartberg Hotel and bobotie; charming townscape and dream houses; bin art; local produce: unrivalled EVOO, unpasteurised dairy and unmissable lamb; Striking Metal and Karoo Looms, plus samoosas to die for; you can check out any time you like…
Before I go on, the Prince Albert restaurant featured above is called The Rude Chef, and we hear that the owner can be blunt at times. But she was as sweet as pie when we had dinner there with Linda and André on our first night… and that was despite the electrical blackout that mostly came and sometimes went.
I’ve blogged about Prince Albert before: click here for my 2018 story, if you like. But here are my current Top 10 reasons to visit this Great Karoo dorp.
#1 Its Marvellous Mayor
Apart from its being so exceptionally karaktervol (full of character, or even characters), what takes Roy and me back there is that our friends Linda and André retired to the town more than 20 years ago after their long careers in the South African diplomatic corps. And now, after two decades of service to the community, Linda is the hard-working Mayorof Prince Albert.
With Linda Jaquet, long-time marvellous human being and current mayor of Prince Albert, in the front garden of Fransie Pienaar Museum, November 2018
For her sins, she might say, having fortitudinously steered the town through the vicissitudes of central governmental ineptitude in general and its woeful handling of the dreadful COVID-crisis in particular. (My words, not hers. And though as an old friend I’m naturally biased, it has to be said that she’s a bloody marvellous human being.)
Apart from serving the working farming community around it, Prince Albert is a thriving tourism magnet. Its population includes a lot of sometimes-retired “professors and experts in botany, anthropology, astronomy, gastronomy, art, film-making and photography”, according to getaway.co.za. Many of them contribute to the town’s impressive list of cultural events: apart from the annual Prince Albert Town Festival in April, there are festivals of olives, books, films and art, plus winter schools for artists, jewellers, writers and chefs. This is a busy little place!
Culinary capital of the world: Cape Town; top ten foodie cities; four nights in Cape Town; getting there: turn left at Bloemfontein, plus some 1980s nostalgia; oysters at Mount Nellie; three great restaurants: one pan-Asian, one Italian and one uber-fancy; the bottom line – exciting food that’s still exceptionally good value
I’m itching to post the fourth and final instalment of This is the House that Roy and Verne Built – especially as we’ve finally moved in: O frabjous day, Calloo! Callay! (Here’s a link to number three.) But Roy and I had four such enjoyable weeks in South Africa a couple of months ago that it would be a pity not to get them on the record.
Cape Town, Culinary Capital of the World
Cape Town was recently crowned the best city in the world for food – can you believe it? That’s according to Condé Nast Traveller’s 2024 Readers’ Choice Awards. And the announcement was coincidentally made on 23 October, just as Roy and I were boarding a Singapore Airways flight from Perth WA to South Africa’s Mother City.
Top Ten Foodie Cities
Here’s the world’s top ten foodie cities, as voted by Condé Nast readers: (If this was one of those moronic Facebook posts, I’d have to divulge to all and sundry that Milan is the only one I haven’t yet been to.)
Historic South of France; day trip from Marseillan to historic Béziers and those murderous Crusaders; one night in Arles; Arles Arena, the ancient Roman amphitheatre; Hotel de L’Amphitheatre; Van Gogh exhibition; currently kaput Van Gogh Café; two Arles restaurants – Gaudina and La Gueule du Loup; downtown Arles and the Rhône riverside
A. Day Trip to Béziers
With so many day-tripping possibilities available from Marseillan (for examples, see Part 2 of this trilogy), we almost didn’t get to Béziers. I’m so glad we did!
Béziers City Centre
Parking is free at the open-air Parking du Vieux Pont. From there, you can walk over the old bridge and up the hill into the historic town centre, ascending either by several long flights of stairs, or three lifts.
Or a combination; I think we did two lifts and one set of stairs.
Béziers view: Roy with the triumphant look of a man who has climbed a lot of stairs and can now stop for coffee
Marseillan port highlights: oysters and Noilly Prat; flashback to 2017… and 2023; aerial views of the Camargue; les huitres… shucking marvellous; meaning of concylicole; Le port concylicole des Mazet; les coquillages, especially Coqui Thau; cruise on L’Étang de Thau; Oyster Farming #101; Maison Noilly Prat; three more Marseillan restaurants; Father’s Day at home with Wendy
Oysters are synonymous with the Étang de Thau – a 22km-long lagoon fed by the Mediterranean Sea. You can enter it by boat from Le Canal du Rhône à Séte, which is how Roy and I got to Marseillan in July/August 2017 on our boat Karanja, while en route to the start of Le Canal du Midi. (For that story, plus scads of Boaty-McBoatface photos, click here.)
Flashback to August 2017…
Crossing LÉtang de Thau from Séte to Marseillan on Karanja, on a hazy day.