UK Travels - Travels with Verne and Roy

Keeping it Clean

Living on a boat, this is by far the most cleaning I’ve done in my life so far.

Some chores I’m doing for the first time ever – like vacuuming and mopping floors, not to mention cleaning toilets (and boat toilets are a whole other nasty ball game).

Even during relatively poverty-stricken student days in the eighties (kicked out of the parental home for alleged inappropriate behaviour and forced to live with admittedly unsuitable boyfriend), I could afford a cleaner, courtesy of my waitressing job, not to mention the attractive apartheid-era cleaning rates. And, happily for me, that’s how matters continued.

Sixteen years of expatriate life in Singapore did nothing to expand my cleaning repertoire, of course. A succession of more-or-less delightful Filipino women continued to keep my life shipshape, with very little effort on my part.

Now I find myself in England. Here, having a cleaner is clearly not the norm, especially for an almost-retired couple living in a 49-foot, one-bedroomed home – albeit one that floats. Indoors are expanses of wooden flooring and cabinetry, a full kitchen, one-and-a-half bathrooms, ornaments and pictures and more. And, as one of my neighbours warned me darkly from Day One, we’re surrounded by Nature, and the air that blows in is full of willow-pollen, insects and dust.

Problem is, I find I can’t just live with dust, let alone those mysterious dust-bunnies that collect in corners. It creeps me out to pick up something from the floor and find it covered in dirt, bits of fluff and strands of hair – and that includes my own.

What can that remaining 0.01 percent of germs be?

Fortunately, I reflect, as we trawl the supermarket aisles, cleaning products seem to have come a long way. And later, I thank goodness for Waitrose rubber gloves (the thin latex ones for sensitive skins and improved sensation – what does that remind you of?), as I gingerly work my way through packets of wipes for leather, wipes for wood, wipes for stainless steel, wipes for granite and wipes for lavatorial surfaces – most of which promise to kill 99.99 percent of all known germs. (Incidentally, what can that remaining 0.01 percent of germs be?)

Resolved to be happy in my unaccustomed work, I’m counting my blessings and naming them one by one. First on the list is Mr Dyson, whose eponymous sucking appliance has brought new life to the 12-year-old Persian rug I bought at a wine-fuelled Oriental Carpets auction 14 years ago. Second is our built-in dishwasher, and Roy’s ardent attachment to it. Third is a certain flexibility of character that lets me sleep in exquisite comfort on un-ironed Egyptian cotton bedsheets.

A woman’s got to draw the line somewhere, and I draw it at ironing sheets.

Friends and Neighbours

When we were contemplating living on a marina on the Thames for the summer, I never gave a thought to the other boat-dwellers who’d be there too – let alone that they’d become our friends.

As a fair few of our neighbours are smokers, every opportunity is taken to sit outside - especially on these long, summer evenings — As a fair few of our neighbours are smokers, every opportunity is taken to sit outside – especially on these long, summer evenings

“It’s like a village,” explained our neighbour Duncan over his customary pint at the Boater’s Bar, our local at the Thames & Kennet Marina. “I’m from a village in Scotland with a population of 1,200, where everyone knew my father, my brother and me, and I knew everyone too. Here, when you walk down the pontoon, everyone says ‘hello’, ‘how are you’, ‘how are you doing’ – I like that.”

The Boater's Bar, social hub of the Thames & Kennet marina — The Boater’s Bar, social hub of the Thames & Kennet marina

This is not the norm in England, he agrees, especially the south. “But we think it is normal,” says Duncan. Whatever the reasons that brought us here, he explains, we share a commonality in our boats – “we have a similar interest and we all have similar issues”. That’s true – but I think there’s more to it than that.

Though he can be fairly charming when he feels like it, my husband Roy has always been of the “good fences make good neighbours” persuasion. Worse still, he can instantly assume a faintly hostile mien to discourage chit-chat in a lift, while accusing me of being able to extract a fellow-passenger’s life history between ground and the 22nd floor.

Life on a marina

This is very different from life in Singapore. For starters, there are no condos and there are no lifts. Instead of traffic noise from the East Coast Parkway, we wake up to the calls of swans, ducks and moorhens.

And we made friends with our neighbours on our very first day on D Pontoon. It didn’t hurt that our berth is directly opposite to that of Morag and “London” John’s barge, Alchemist, and that Morag runs the extremely popular Boater’s Bar, the social hub of the marina.

Though it’s farthest away from the facilities (bar, pump-out, rubbish bins, marina office, ablutions, parking lot), the denizens of D Pontoon declare it the best spot on the marina. They should know. I just can’t believe how lucky we’ve been to end up here, surrounded by this group of warm, generous and instantly accepting people.

To our left are Duncan and the gorgeous Fairy on Big Baloo; on Tranen, Heather and Kenny, party animals whose broad Scots accents I’m finally penetrating. On the other side is ex-army colonel David Watson on Elysian. His neighbours, tree-surgeon Doug and his wife Sue, live on heritage vessel Tedders, a 19th-century houseboat (with shutters!) that I’d love to find out more about. Moored closest to the marina entrance from the Thames, Tony and Ann on Initio are always ready on a windy day to offer incoming neighbours a hand with the ropes.

"Tedders", a 19th-century houseboat that used to belong to Oxford University — “Tedders”, a 19th-century houseboat that used to belong to Oxford University

"Locksley", Pam's big old barge, has hosted some famous parties — “Locksley”, Pam’s big old barge, has hosted some famous parties

The circle of friends includes a number of women who live alone; generally, it seems, on huge boats. Bubbly blonde art teacher Sarah says she spent the children’s inheritance on Sadie, a 70-tonne, 120-year-old barge built of iron. (No, they didn’t mind.) On the barge next to hers is recently widowed Aussie swim teacher Stella; and Pam throws famous parties on big old Locksley.

Several people have warned us – only half-jokingly – that T&K Marina is like Hotel California: you can check out any time you like, but you can never leave. After our first month here, I already believe them.

David Watson, at the annual berth-holders hog roast last Saturday evening

Sonning Bridge

Canal bridges tend often to be tricky – not so the much larger ones spanning the broad and beautiful River Thames. But Sonning Bridge promised to be a bit of a challenge.

We’re still very new boat-owners, so advice from the experienced and exceptionally friendly barging community at Thames & Kennet Marina is always welcome. Neighbours on either side hinted that it might not be a cinch to navigate Karanja under the bridge at Sonning, the very next bridge downstream from the marina entrance to the Thames.

Built in 1775 to replace an early-16th-century wooden version, Sonning Bridge – just after Sonning Lock – is relatively small, and you can only navigate through the middle of the three arches. It’s set at an angle, too. Going downstream, you have the advantage of right of way, but also less manoeuvrability. Coming back upstream is slightly more difficult, as you have to make a rather sharp turn to the left in limited space.

When daughter Wendy visited us from her home in Brittany, it seemed the right time to brave Sonning Bridge for the first time, and, happily, the exercise went without a hitch: Roy had no problem easing our 49-foot Dutch-style barge smoothly through that middle arch (while I helpfully kept my eyes shut).

Wendy having a Titanic moment on the way to Sonning

Please respect the privacy of this sign!

After mooring just beyond The Great House (www.greathouse@sonning.co.uk) where Roy and I had also stayed for the mid-June 2016 night that Karanja was brought down by road from the Piper boatyard at Stoke-on-Trent), we lunched alfresco at the Coppa Club restaurant (www.coppaclub.co.uk), located just a gentle upward slope of lawn away from the Thames.

Sonning Bridge ticked off the list, we’re planning a longer trip downstream next week – at least as far as Marlowe.

English Country Pub Food – The Bird in Hand, Sonning Common

According to our neighbours at the Thames & Kennet Marina, near the English town of Reading, the Bird in Hand, “just up the road”, is one of the best places to eat in the neighbourhood. That’s not surprising – the chef and proprietor is a Sicilian, Santino Busciglio, who cooked at several Michelin-starred restaurants in London before taking over proprietorship of this reportedly 13th-century country inn.

It certainly looked the part when we popped in last Sunday, partly for a half of cider but mainly to check things out. Having done lunchtime duty, Santino came in with his dog to commune with a table of diners and their own dog, who’d been slumbering under the table. We introduced ourselves, and then followed a delicious discussion with this delightfully charming man about the benefits of brining pork for several days; that day’s Sunday roast had been a gorgeous belly, and the diner who was finishing off his portion of it had such a look of glazed contentment that I could hardly wait to return for a meal.

So we were back the very next Wednesday evening, this time with daughter Wendy, who was visiting from France. It was the Bird in Hand’s weekly pizza night: From 5pm until sunset (around 10pm now, it being mid-summer), Santino creates his own authentic, slow-rising sourdough pizzas in the wood-fired alfresco oven out back, next to a verdant expanse of beer-garden. Pizza is not generally my first choice, nor Roy’s, but the signature Leggero (£12), thin of crust and topped with mozzarella, fresh tomato polpa, anchovies and just a hint of chilli, was everything we’d hoped for.

All our neighbours had recommended the Bird in Hand’s beef, and Wendy polished off her grilled fillet of aged Herefordshire (225g; 24); it came with a “divine” peppercorn sauce, mixed vegetables and fat golden chips that had been thrice-cooked in beef dripping (!).

From a mostly Italian wine list, we chose a nice Bordeaux (£28). The service was good – especially when you think that the chef was having to run between the alfresco pizza oven and the indoor kitchen; and did I mention what a lovely, picturesque old place this is to linger in? (It offers rooms, too, by the way.)

We’ll be back before long. The Châteaubriand for two (560g; 28 per person) is calling, and so are the various small sharing dishes – especially the grilled Galician octopus and the salt cod fishcakes. Who thought there’d be such a place in the heart of the English countryside?

www.birdinhand.co.uk

The Arrow Mill, charming accommodation in Warwickshire

This is the perfect place for a summer wedding – in fact, my stepson Carl and our daughter-in-law Carrie were married here on a perfect English summer’s day in July, 2009. We (but especially Roy) have stayed here many times since then; it’s conveniently close to Roy’s mum’s home in Alcester.

We come not so much for the accommodation as for the food, though this is a lovely old historical inn with oodles of atmosphere. Casual weekday guests like us are not the hotel’s bread and butter: weddings are.

Nevertheless, proprietor Simon does a great job in the kitchen on this quiet Tuesday evening in mid-summer, ably assisted by his friendly wife, Agnes. We’ve already had an excellent lunch today at The Bell at Welford-on-Avon (where Roy had an apple crumble that I suspect he’s going to be raving about for weeks to come); but both Roy and I thoroughly enjoy our delicious shanks of lamb, slow-braised for 14 hours. Wendy, more restrained, pairs a starter of cheesy mushrooms with a lovely salad.

Roy is always good at sussing out the best room at a hotel, and then making sure he gets it on his next visit; at the Arrow Mill, it’s Room 11: a corner location, up just one flight of stairs, away from any kitchen noise and with pretty views. It has a romantic four-poster bed and a fabulous corner bath to put a smile on my face – though Roy complains he has to jump around in the shower to get wet.

We’ll be back, no doubt of that.

The Bull Hotel at Stony Stratford, Milton Keynes

Overnight at The Bull Hotel either before or after the British Grand Prix – it’s 20 minutes from the Silverstone circuit.

People tend to sneer when you mention the “new town” of Milton Keynes, built in 1967 as one of several to relieve London congestion. But there’s more to the place than ugly concrete facades and bewilderingly endless roundabouts – it also encompasses Stony Stratford, whose Watling Street was since Roman times the main thoroughfare from London to the north, and later famous as an overnight stop for stagecoaches.

The Bull Hotel (1609) is one of a handful of old hostelries that remain, and Roy and I spent the night there after the 2016 F1 British Grand Prix. Just along the High Street is The Cock, and this is apparently the origin of the expression “cock and bull story” – it refers to the gossip and tall stories exchanged by travellers at these old inns in days of yore. You can almost hear the clatter of ghostly stage-coaches through its arched entryway into the courtyard; but it’s more likely the sound of a barrel of real ale rolling across cobbles into the adjacent Vaults pub.

One of just 12 rooms, ours overlooked the Parish Church of St Mary and St Giles. Furnishing and décor throughout this little hotel are in new condition, cosy, mainly comfortable, and in keeping with its history. Our room had a spacious bathroom with a good shower, plus a couple of welcome features such as armchairs, a safe and even a fan. This being F1 weekend, the GBP135 we paid was understandably over the odds; happily, it included a full English breakfast, served all the way through to a civilised 11am.

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Who names these beers?

Less civilised was the Bull’s kitchen closing at 6pm on a Sunday night. After a half of Wight Squirrel (lovely name!) at the Vaults, we had another of Hop Goes the Beagle (!) at The Old George Inn (www.theoldgeorge.com), a cosy 16th-century pub offering accommodation and known for its live music.

After that, dinner at the decidedly 21st-century Indian-Bangladeshi Kardamom Lounge (www.kardamomlounge.com), mainly because it was still open. Its ten-quid Sunday Gourmet deal included starter, main, side dish and bread or rice. Good service, good value and generally good and plentiful food, though the chicken vindaloo was, we agreed, so volcanically hot as to be virtually uneatable.

Gratuitous Limerick

A sign for Buckingham on the route back to Reading made me wonder aloud to Roy whether there might be a dirty limerick about that first-mentioned town. There was, yes, and the old sailor in him recalled and recited it at once. It’s far too filthy to repeat here, but I’m going to do so anyway:

There was a young man from Buckingham,

Who stood on the bridge at Uppingham,

Watching the stunts of the c***s in the punts

And the tricks of the pricks who were f***ing’em.

(Sorry.)

British Grand Prix 2016 at Silverstone

With Lewis Hamilton on pole again, Roy’s hoping for rain during the race, to make things “more interesting than the old procession, with the two Mercedes way ahead of everyone else.” With just 10 minutes to go, it’s pouring – and is that hail? Oh, wait – the sun’s come out!

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Roy’s last British Grand Prix was about 30 years ago, he says. His cousin, Anthony (Tony) Jardine, was doing PR for Camel in those days – when cigarette brands were major sponsors of Formula One, along with JPS, Marlborough, Rothmans et al (and many of us used to smoke, remember?). Camel was sponsoring Lotus at the time, he says.

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And here Roy is again – this time with me – at the 2016 British Grand Prix. Our tickets to the fabulous Woodcote Apex hospitality suite were arranged by Roy’s daughter Wendy as her gift to him for his 65th birthday (thanks again, Wendy!), once again through Tony. (He, of course, is still very involved in F1, and motor sports in general: he races and rallies in his own right.)

Silverstone is infamous for diabolical traffic, and the usual English midsummer rain makes things worse. Having set off from the marina at Reading at the ungodly hour of 6.15am, however, we had a clear run through. From our designated Parking Area 26, it’s about a 10-minute walk to Woodcote, and we walk in just in time for coffee and breakfast. Drinks flow from 10.30am all the way through to the suite’s closure at 6pm; a buffet lunch is served from 11.30am.

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There’s plenty to keep the punters occupied at the F1 Village. Merchandise from the various teams is on sale; there’s a Giant Wheel, London Karting doing electric go-karts, Segways, a bungee trampoline and more. And I’ve been in England long enough to appreciate the fact that the weather’s mainly “dry” – actual sunshine is always hoped for, but never really expected.

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When the race ends at 3pm, there’s the Grand Prix After Party, hosted by cousin Tony – The Feeling and The Dolls will perform. We have backstage tickets! – and a room for the night booked at The Bull, at Stony Stratford. Let the games begin!

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Thames cruise from Caversham to Goring

Our Dutch barge Karanja‘s second trip, upriver again from Thames & Kennet Marina to Goring, was more eventful than our maiden voyage (see previous post) – but all good practice.

After a bit of traffic, the Karanja came up to Caversham Lock behind a hire boat under the control (understand that I use the term loosely) of two retirement-age couples: this was their first lock, they said. We were to share it with them, along with another two boats that came in behind us. That the wine was flowing freely probably didn’t help, and it was with relief that we passed the revellers before the next lock. So, two new experiences: sharing a lock with other boats, and having to sound our horn to request another boat to move to starboard when it’s about to be passed.

Goring Lock and its adjacent weir

Goring was as lovely as our marina friends had promised. We were lucky to score the last space on the 24-hour free mooring, on the right, just before Goring Lock.

Our mooring at Goring…

… and from the other side

It’s an exquisite old waterside village of flint-and-brick dwellings, complete with desirable facilities for its evidently affluent villagers. We popped into: McColl’s store (for milk); The John Barleycorn Inn (Strongbow on tap, hake goujons and herby olives in a sunny garden); The Goring Grocer (scrumptious fare straight out of their oven, including the best and fattest pork-herb-garlic sausage rolls ever); and The Miller of Mansfield, an 18th-century coach-house with an award-winning restaurant (for dinner).

The Miller at Goring

Roy in the beer garden at John Barleycorn, Goring

Our marina friends also highly recommend Italian restaurant Rossini’s, and neighbouring Moulsford’s Beetle and Wedge Boathouse, doubly immortalised in Kenneth Graham’s The Wind in the Willows and Jerome K. Jerome’s Three Men in a Boat. We’ll have to do that next time.

And I made a new friend on the towpath – a South African called Michelle, who told me how to deal with cattle that might block your way. (There literally was a bull at a gate.) “Make yourself as big as you can,” she advised. “Hold your arms wide, move them back and forth, and go ‘Wo, wo!’ as you march forward, to show them who’s boss.” Well, I’ll know for next time. Thanks, Michelle!

Above: Charming sign in Goring’s village green; Below: Goring lockhouse

Homeward bound

Though we’d sworn to be fair-weather sailors, and it was raining quite steadily, after two nights in peaceful Goring it was time to head home to our berth at Thames & Kennet Marina.

Three hours of cruising downriver through the rain brought a few new firsts:

* Turning into the downstream current from our berth

* A brief encounter with the lock wall at Whitchurch, where we lost about six inches of paint from the “rubbing straight” – that’s what it’s for, isn’t it?

* Practising an emergency stop

* Coming up to canoeists spread across the river right where we needed to turn across the river to enter the marina

* Berthing in the marina in the face of a strong wind – not easy!

The more we cruise, the more we learn about handling a barge in various conditions. Our next trip will be downstream to Sonning, which involves negotiating the reputedly tricky Sonning Bridge.

Maiden voyage to Pangbourne

Log: 21 June

Left Thames & Kennet Marina at 10.30am on a partly sunny morning, headed upstream for Caversham Lock – Karanja’s maiden lock, with a weir to starboard. Mapledurham Lock similarly weir to starboard. Both locks manned. Moored overnight on port bank just before Whitchurch Toll Bridge, alongside Pangbourne Meadow. Steaming time 2.75 hrs.

Happily uneventful, our maiden voyage was. After a week in the marina, we’d initially settled on Monday, 20 June as the big day – when any Sunday trippers would have departed. But it promised to pour with rain, so we postponed till Tuesday. Good move, that, as it gave me a chance to practise a bit with those dreaded ropes.

Unlike the locks on the canals we’ve visited, ones on the Thames River are manned, and very friendly and helpful the guys are, too. One at Caversham kindly pretended not to notice that I’d embarrassingly flung my entire line ashore when we came alongside at the lock approach. The second and final lock of the day, Mapledurham, has a daunting approach featuring a wide and churning weir to the right; the lock itself is classified as a deep one (with a drop of 6 feet, 9 inches), so you don’t want to be stopped too far forward in the lock chamber when the white water starts gushing in.

Our mooring at Pangbourne Meadows was beautiful, just before the graceful curve of Whitchurch Toll Bridge – which bridge (pictured below) is said to have been described as ugly by the 19th-century narrator in Jerome K. Jerome’s Three Men in a Boat – not to mention the dog. (Hilarious stuff that I’ve just started reading).

Jogging recce

Before we set off from T&K Marina on our maiden voyage, I’d already explored the first leg of the journey by jogging along the towpath a few miles past Caversham Bridge and back again; very like the way a dog taken for a walk and let off its leash will run backwards and forwards.

A busy old day on the Thames tow path, near Caversham Bridge.

What is this peculiar bird? (Note to self: buy a book on waterfowls.)

Graceful Whitford Toll Bridge is still privately owned – motorists pay 40p to cross, but it’s free for pedestrians.

Moored at pleasant Pangbourne Meadows, within walking distance of The Swan.

It was the same story after we’d tied up at Pangbourne Meadows. Leaving Roy to boaty pursuits, I did a recce to find The Swan, Pangbourne’s 1642 waterside pub where we planned to do drinks and dinner later. (Good thing, too, as it was only on the way back that I found the best route, guaranteed to keep him in a good mood.)

Log: 22 June

As yesterday, but in reverse. Cast off at 10.30am in drizzle, two hrs downstream back to T&K Marina. Total engine hours 5.6.

It wasn’t supposed to rain the next morning, according to the forecast. But this is England, as people keep reminding me, so we set off in drizzle, me gamely facing the elements in a violently pink waterproof garment bought ages ago in Takashimaya’ sports department for this very day. (I’ve worked out the difference between winter and summer in England, by the way – in summer, you’re expected to wear colours.)

Downstream, this time, ourselves a bit more relaxed than yesterday and our speed a bit quicker with the force of the river at our stern. Safely back at D Pontoon no. 32, it was time for lunch and a celebratory glass of wine. Here’s to us!

How We Got Here

As luck would have it, I’m terribly prone to seasickness

Why a boat?

It’s a long story, but now that my husband is retired – and I’m doing a lot less writing and editing work – I have some time to tell it.

Three or four years ago, I gently hinted to Roy that perhaps he should find a hobby to occupy himself with after retirement. This was mostly with a view to his future happiness, but also with the idea of keeping him busy when he no longer had minions to boss around. Perhaps he could take up pottery, or macramé – or we could join a choir together once again (in preparation for the inevitable).

To my surprise and alarm, he started Googling boats. Surprise because he’d shown zero interest in boating of any sort since we met in 1992, discounting the odd cruise on a floating five-star hotel. Alarm because the boat-builder he had in mind was Nordhavn, purveyor of ocean-going, trawler-style motor yachts that start from around a million-and-a-half US dollars. (Everyone knows that there are two happy days in the life of a boat-owner – the day you buy it and the day you sell it.)

As luck would have it, I’m terribly prone to seasickness. His Nordhavn file was already a couple of inches thick with brochures, and Roy’s customised wheelhouse design almost complete, when the cruise we did on the lovely Silver Shadow from Singapore to Hong Kong proved conclusively that I was not a suitable mate with whom to cross the ocean on 40 to 120 feet of vessel. Phew!

Which boat?

I married a tenacious man, it must be said. When he came up with the idea of a canal barge – a Dutch barge, specifically – designed to ply rivers and canals, I thought: why not? It would at the very least keep him busy. Roy is a man who needs a project; and his most recent one, the gutting and redesign of our Singapore apartment, was finally complete.

If you ask Roy, he’ll tell you he’s been interested in barges ever since he was a boy growing up in in the English Midlands. He even recalls doing a detailed barge design in his early teens. (Who’d have guessed?)

And what an absorbing project it has been! To test the waters (so to speak), we hired a wide-beam barge called the Serenity for a ridiculously warm and sunny week in September 2014, and tootled up and down the Grand Union Canal between Milton Keynes and the charming old canal village of Stoke Bruerne. After some trepidation I mastered the windlass and conquered the locks, together with any doubts I may have had.

(Read more about our week on Serenity in this article, published in Expat Living Singapore in April 2014: Serenity Trip April 14)

Finding the right boat-builder (Simon Piper of Piper Boats in Stoke-on-Trent) was the next step. Debating the size (49 feet, rather than the physically daunting 75 feet that Roy was inclined to go for) and the number of bedrooms (just one, so as to maximise living space) took several visits to Piper’s offices and quite a lot of verbal stamina on my part.

I’ve always wanted a TV that disappears from view

Traditionalists might regard the Karanja with perturbation. For one thing, we dispensed with the traditional stove in the corner of the saloon. Instead, we have a concealed TV that glides up and down at the touch of a button on the remote.

Is life without a bath worth living?

For another, I have a full-size bath. What’s more, we’ve maximised the deck space by shifting the dog-box (ceiling hatch) as far aft as possible, surrounded the deck with stainless steel yacht stanchions and covered it with gorgeous flexi-teak. Perfect for my sun-lounger!

And here are a couple more great photos, courtesy of Piper Boats:

Why Karanja?

Karanja was the ship Roy remembers most fondly from his nine years with BI (The British India Steam Navigation Co.) – a passenger cargo vessel that plied the Indian Ocean with stops at Bombay, Karachi, the Seychelles, Mombasa, Dar Es Salaam, Beira, Lourenço Marques (now Maputo) and Durban. A picture of the original ship now hangs in her namesake’s saloon, and the engraved silver mug that was a 21st birthday gift from his fellow officers gleams from a nearby shelf. (How long it will continue to gleam in the absence of domestic help is a question.)

The original Karanja, which Roy sailed on during the early 70s

As for her black-and-white exterior, every BI ship had a black funnel painted with two white bands, and our baby Karanja’s paintwork is a sort of homage to that.

The flags tell their own story: the one at the back is the Singapore ensign, showing that we’re registered in Singapore. The small one at the front is the house flag: fairly quirkily, Roy chose the flag of the old British East India Company, which would have been flown by Stamford Raffles as he sailed into Singapore in January 1819.