Just two hours from Durban in the KwaZulu-Natal Midlands is Indigo Fields Bush Spa, a unique and world-class destination that I would recommend to anyone who likes an idyllic natural environment, a lot of pampering and oodles of warm, discreet and personalised service.

Seriously, what do you give such a thoroughly spoilt man as Roy for his 68th birthday? Such men already have everything they need or want – or, at least, everything in my limited price range.

It can only be an experience,  preferably one he hasn’t had before. So, having heard good things about Indigo Fields, I surprised my husband with a two-night mid-week stay there. (Click here for spa and accommodation packages.)

Check-in time was 12 noon. We just had enough time to stop for an excellent coffee at the cycling-themed Flamme Rouge Café, at Gowrie Shopping Village near Nottingham Road. It brews up the local, artisanal  Terbodore brand.

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The turnoff to Indigo Fields is just five minutes down the R103 from Brookdale Hydro (click here for that blog post), where we once spent a full, fabulous week detoxing – 1,200 calories a day, no coffee and no alcohol.

It’s very different at Indigo Fields, where the hospitality is old-school and you are positively encouraged to have a few drinks.

They waste no time. It all starts with the sparkling wine and orange juice offered at your 12 noon check-in. Immediately thereafter comes lunch, with another bottle of sparkling or whatever else takes your fancy.

Amarula liqueur and truffles were brought to us around 3pm, after our afternoon spa treatment; and a decanter of emergency sherry was provided in our room in case we got thirsty before the 5.30pm delivery of pre-dinner wine.

Accommodation

A cluster of thatched buildings houses various accommodation – including two cottages for bigger groups, plus dining and lounge spaces, all furnished in comfortable, rustic style.

We had the Rose Room – a guest suite featuring four-poster bed and full bathroom downstairs, with stairs up to a lounge area that opens on to a private balcony with an idyllic farmland view.

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Food

For lunch on the first day, the uber-hospitable Rudi Ngubane showed us to the cute wine-cellar. Still-warm rosemary and sun-dried tomato focaccia was the first course (as it is every day), followed by fishcakes with salad – all delicious. It was a similar arrangement the next day: an alfresco lunch table for just the two of us. (Quinoa salad for me, chicken tramezzini for Roy.)

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Late in the afternoon, redoubtable matriarch of the Hindle family, Granny Pat, took our dinner order from a menu of five starters, five mains and five desserts. Our favourite dining spot was probably the study, complete with sofas in front of a bright and crackling fire. On our first night, we feasted there on local rack of lamb.

Almost as nice was the guest lounge, where on our second night we indulged in rolled pork belly. Unlike people, food does not photograph well by candlelight – but I do remember starting with a lovely tomato soup and finishing with a wickedly good peanut butter ice cream cake.

Breakfast is the only time you get to inspect your fellow guests. Alongside that morning’s hot breakfast dish, such as poached eggs with the option of bacon or smoked salmon, you help yourself to magnificent fruit salad, the farm’s own thick, full cream yoghurt, cereals, fresh-baked muffins and scrumptious scones.

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Spa Treatments

These May days are beautiful, rising to around 20 degrees Celsius- but night-time temperatures plummet to 5 or 6 degrees.

You’re encouraged to slop around in gowns for most of the day. Apart from the standard white spa gown, you also have furry black numbers – ideal for when it’s cooler, and rather flattering in a sort of sleek-seal way.

It’s a most appealing spa concept: Justin drives you to one of the spa bomas in the bush, or to the slightly larger main spa, depending on what treatment you are about to receive. At each boarding point are some handy steps that allow you to elegantly step straight into the jeep.

Tembi and Nomvulo were our spa therapists for the first afternoon’s head, face, shoulder and feet massage. It wasn’t exactly classical, but it was deeply relaxing – and after wine with lunch, there was no point in trying not to snore.

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Next morning, we were scheduled for a full-body Swedish massage at a different boma. Again, Sharon and Cindy did an expert job.

After lunch came our final treatment, this time in the main spa. Zanele and Thembi gave us a good Epsom salts body scrub, using liberal amounts of the stuff – they must go through huge quantities of it! – before sending us into the four-man Scandi steam room for ten minutes.

Then came half-an-hour in the Jacuzzi, complete with discreetly drawn curtains and yet another bottle of sparkling wine. The water was just a bit too hot for comfort, and that may be why Roy leapt out and headed for the shower before I could have my wicked way with him.