Fresh from three months in the Antipodes, we’re back in Singapore for less than a couple of weeks – better make the most of it! I’ve always fancied living in the hip Tiong Bahru district, and so jumped at the chance of staying at our friend Matt Chapman’s gorgeous flat in Eng Hoon Street while he was away. Thanks again, Matt!
Tiong Bahru is the city’s very first public housing estate – built in the 1930s by the Singapore Improvement Trust (predecessor to the HDB, or Housing Development Board). In recent years, this district has become one of Singapore’s trendiest and therefore priciest residential areas.
The Tiong Bahru Road block shown above is typical of this Art Deco estate.
Just a few doors down from Matt’s place is the famous Tiong Bahru Bakery; it’s hard to find a seat on a weekend morning, but I can smugly “ta pau” (Hokkien for “take away”, both noun and verb) two crusty almond croissants and enjoy them with Nespresso coffee at home with Roy.
A Sense of Place
Tiong Bahru is now home not only to the local eateries it’s always been known for, but also to artisanal beard-trimmers, European bakeries, delis, crocodile-oil merchants and more.
It’s difficult to define the atmosphere of a place: you have to be there to feel it. If you can look beyond the hype, Tiong Bahru still has something of the lovely, laid-back vibe of Katong and the East Coast. I almost feel like going out in shorts, a T-shirt and slippers (Singlish for flip flops), and without makeup. (Almost, I said.)
